JOSEPH ALTUZARRA
interview LILIYA RAKH
Liliya Rakh met with Joseph Altuzarra – one of the brightest rising names in fashion. His unique vision of female silhouette, fresh approach to design every season and sparkling energy has won him numerous awards (CFDA womenswear designer of the year among them)
and made him "The new Tom Ford" of American fashion.
and made him "The new Tom Ford" of American fashion.
intERVIEW
JOSEPH ALTUZARRA
Liliya Rakh met with Joseph Altuzarra – one of the brightest rising names in fashion. His unique vision of female silhouette, fresh approach to design every season and sparkling energy has won him numerous awards (CFDA womenswear designer of the year among them) and made him "The new Tom Ford" of American fashion.
— Your designs are always very feminine and complimentary to female form. It seems that you always know perfectly how to accentuate a certain shape or curve. Do you think some of your inspiration comes from the ballet background in your childhood?
— Thank you. My inspiration from season to season definitely changes – but I certainly do look at dance and ballet every now and again. working with my friend, the choreographer Christopher wheeldon on designing costumes for a Pas de Deux at the New York City Ballet was a fantastic experience.
— What about other sources of inspiration? Architecture? Music? Art? Film? I know you have an art background.
— Yes. I studied Art and Art history in college. I am often inspired by films – such as orlando (SS13) or rosemary's Baby and Barry Lyndon (SS15), but I often do find inspiration in other mediums, from comic books – Corto Maltese (Fw12) or Art – Sheila hicks and Maria Pergay (Fw14).
— You seem to use a lot of vertical stripes in your designs. Where does this affection come from?
— I have been drawn to different types of stripes across seasons. For Spring 2014, I was inspired by French mattress ticking, while for Spring 2015 I was struck by a Moroccan Berbere stripe.
— Thank you. My inspiration from season to season definitely changes – but I certainly do look at dance and ballet every now and again. working with my friend, the choreographer Christopher wheeldon on designing costumes for a Pas de Deux at the New York City Ballet was a fantastic experience.
— What about other sources of inspiration? Architecture? Music? Art? Film? I know you have an art background.
— Yes. I studied Art and Art history in college. I am often inspired by films – such as orlando (SS13) or rosemary's Baby and Barry Lyndon (SS15), but I often do find inspiration in other mediums, from comic books – Corto Maltese (Fw12) or Art – Sheila hicks and Maria Pergay (Fw14).
— You seem to use a lot of vertical stripes in your designs. Where does this affection come from?
— I have been drawn to different types of stripes across seasons. For Spring 2014, I was inspired by French mattress ticking, while for Spring 2015 I was struck by a Moroccan Berbere stripe.
— To my taste, Altuzarra makes some of the most beautiful, elegant and sexy shoes in the fashion world. They are just perfect. Where is your inspiration for that coming from?
– Thank you. Usually I design the shoes in
tandem with developing the collection – so the sources of inspiration can also range from one season to another.
— Tell me more about your philosophy of combining "Frenchness and American pragmatism" in your creations?
— That's very much part of my DNA (I grew up in Paris, my father is French and my mother is American) as well as very much distinctly part of the brand's DNA. Since the inception of the brand, I have been interested in exploring the contrast and melding of French sophistication and seductiveness with that of American pragmatism, and the idea of utility in fashion.
– Thank you. Usually I design the shoes in
tandem with developing the collection – so the sources of inspiration can also range from one season to another.
— Tell me more about your philosophy of combining "Frenchness and American pragmatism" in your creations?
— That's very much part of my DNA (I grew up in Paris, my father is French and my mother is American) as well as very much distinctly part of the brand's DNA. Since the inception of the brand, I have been interested in exploring the contrast and melding of French sophistication and seductiveness with that of American pragmatism, and the idea of utility in fashion.
— And who is she – a perfect Altuzarra woman?
— The Altuzarra woman is someone who is very confident and sophisticated – she always wants to feel sexy and seductive.
— Having worked with the biggest names in the industry, Marc Jacobs, Proenza Schouler, Givenchy and Nicolas Caito, how did that shape your ide- as and styles for Altuzarra? How difficult did you find it to adjust to each of the mentioned brands' signature styles? What was your favourite job, if it's not impolite to mention?
— I really enjoyed my time and experience at each position – and from each post took away different takeaways and observations. At Proenza Schouler for example – I enjoyed seeing how a business is operated in a holistic way. At Givenchy with Riccardo, it was more about how a Design team was run.
— The Altuzarra woman is someone who is very confident and sophisticated – she always wants to feel sexy and seductive.
— Having worked with the biggest names in the industry, Marc Jacobs, Proenza Schouler, Givenchy and Nicolas Caito, how did that shape your ide- as and styles for Altuzarra? How difficult did you find it to adjust to each of the mentioned brands' signature styles? What was your favourite job, if it's not impolite to mention?
— I really enjoyed my time and experience at each position – and from each post took away different takeaways and observations. At Proenza Schouler for example – I enjoyed seeing how a business is operated in a holistic way. At Givenchy with Riccardo, it was more about how a Design team was run.
"MY INSPIRATION FROM SEASON TO SEASON DEFINITELY CHANGES – BUT I CERTAINLY DO LOOK AT DANCE AND BALLET EVERY NOW AND AGAIN."
— It seems that the dedicated followers of the brand are a bit older women, and you seem to like that, from your previous interviews. How do you feel, though, about the global marketing trend of making everything younger? Targeting young audiences or making older people feel that they are still young?
— When I think about my customer, she may not be of a certain age, but more about a specific state of mind. She is sophisticated and confident about who she is, and there are some younger women who fall into that category as well.
— Last year you have collaborated with Target on a special collection. Could you tell more about the mechanics behind such collaborations? Which of your signature designs or shapes were used in that collection? And how successful do you think it turned out?
— Working with target was a very enjoyable experience. we wanted to keep the collection classic Altuzarra with tailored jackets, suiting, trench coats, body-conscious and sensual silhouettes. what was important, though, was that the collection felt special and specific for target and had its own narrative, so we brought in the idea of the Altuzarra woman traveling the world and taking inspiration from her experiences.
— When I think about my customer, she may not be of a certain age, but more about a specific state of mind. She is sophisticated and confident about who she is, and there are some younger women who fall into that category as well.
— Last year you have collaborated with Target on a special collection. Could you tell more about the mechanics behind such collaborations? Which of your signature designs or shapes were used in that collection? And how successful do you think it turned out?
— Working with target was a very enjoyable experience. we wanted to keep the collection classic Altuzarra with tailored jackets, suiting, trench coats, body-conscious and sensual silhouettes. what was important, though, was that the collection felt special and specific for target and had its own narrative, so we brought in the idea of the Altuzarra woman traveling the world and taking inspiration from her experiences.
— Altuzarra is a fast-expanding brand, do you ever expect your clients from different parts of the world see different things in your clothes? Do you think it matters where the woman buying Altuzarra is from?
— Not at all. I am always so happy to read, hear about or meet women from around the world who support the brand.
— In the beginning of 2014 you were talking about launching the first signature Altuzarra bag. Has it happened? How far are you in the process, and could you reveal anything about it? What is it going to be? What is it inspired by?
— I can't say as of yet, but definitely stay tuned!
— What is Altuzarra's global mission?
— To make the Modern woman Feel Seductive and Look Sexy.
— Not at all. I am always so happy to read, hear about or meet women from around the world who support the brand.
— In the beginning of 2014 you were talking about launching the first signature Altuzarra bag. Has it happened? How far are you in the process, and could you reveal anything about it? What is it going to be? What is it inspired by?
— I can't say as of yet, but definitely stay tuned!
— What is Altuzarra's global mission?
— To make the Modern woman Feel Seductive and Look Sexy.
Interview: Liliya Rakh